City of Dogs

Venice is a city of dogs, which makes us love it even more. There is no dog shit, because the fines for

inadequate garbage disposal are mindboggling. In fact, garbage disposal in general is quite a challenge. We have to take our trash to the garbage boat -- daily for regular garbage, and on certain days for recyclables of different types. Luckily, our disposal spot is three minutes away, and instead of being available from 6:30 to 8:30 as most are, which if you know us you know would be impossible, it's open till 10:30. After Egypt, the cleanliness is wonderful, though the garbage boat thing is not.

Saturday Phil and I went to the Ca'Doro, which turned out to be closed for renovation, but the two paintings we wanted to see, a spectacular Bellini pieta and Mantegna's St. Sebastian, were on display, what luck! And I bought a very silly sweater. 

On Sunday, the boys went to Trieste. I stayed home, not feeling a hundred percent. They took the train and walked ten miles in the city, visiting a plethora of James Joyce sites, the stone pier, the cathedral, the canal, and the castle. They climbed up the Giant's Stairway for spectacular views. And, of course, drank white wine in the bars where Joyce drank white wine.

While they were gone I ventured out for a stroll, along with all the tourists (mostly Italian) visiting Venice for the holidays. The streets were jam-packed, but it wasn't unpleasant. I had picked a random church as a destination so I wouldn't get too lost, and it turned out to be open. I went inside and found a surprise Bellini painting in a dark back room -- what a thrill!

When the boys returned we went out for pizza, which is hit-and-miss in Venice because they are not allowed to use the wood-burning ovens that create crispy crusts. Still, we found a good place, adding only a mile or so to the total. 

Monday, foggy and cold,  was the day when Klauser and Sue were to arrive. Ben and I went out shopping and he bought a lovely sweater; we stopped for spritzes along the Grand Canal, admiring the passing parade. We watched a very strong, very excited bulldog nearly pull its owner into the water. Then Phil and I took Ben to his new apartment across the Canal, which created some angst because the vaporetto machine wouldn't take our credit cards, so we had to walk and walk and walk to another machine and then we sort of got off at the wrong stop. But the apartment is very nice, right on a canal and across from the Frari Church.

Klauser and Sue arrived on time, though the fog nearly cancelled their water taxi. Phil met them and brought them back to the apartment, and we settled in with prosecco and snacks and then headed out to meet Ben for dinner at the restaurant we went to on our first night. It was just as good the second time. Maybe even better.