On New Year's Day, we rested. Sue and Ben and I coughed. Sue decided to venture out in the daylight at last, so Phil took her and Klauser on a walk to see architectural gems, including the Bobolo Tower and the Fenice Opera House. After restorative prosecco, we walked over the Academia bridge to a fancy restaurant in Dorsudoro and all (except Ben) had mushroom and pumpkin risotto, which was delicious.
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| Donatello's John the Baptist |
On Friday, with everyone on the mend, Ben left for Athens. Phil and I visited the Frari Church, a monumental Franciscan edifice begun in 1250 where we viewed Titian's Assumption of the Virgin and his vibrantly colored Madonna of Ca' Pesaro. We saw the painted wood statue of John the Baptist by Donatello (a character in one of my many unpublished novels), Bellini's Madonna and Child with Saints and Angels, and Titian's tomb. Then on to San Polo, the second oldest church in the city, where we saw the second of three Tintoretto Last Suppers, and Tiepolo's Stations of the Cross. Klauser and Sue boated to Murano, where they spent much of their money and gifted us a gorgeous set of champagne flutes (which we have already used to excess).
That night I had planned for us a trip to the opera -- but not just any opera. This was called Musica a Palazzo, opera sung at the fifteenth century Palazzo Barbarigo Minotto, where the audience moves from room to room as the scenes change. We were to see Rigoletto, blessedly short. First we ate at a restaurant where we found, for the first time basically anywhere, unctuous waiters who tried very hard to upsell us on everything and nearly got Klauser to agree to a $140 bottle of wine. The food was excellent but the experience, not so much. The walk to the palace was vexing, as it was hidden in backstreets. Many well-dressed people wandered around asking annoyed shopkeepers where to go.
We arrived on time, though not without a certain amount of profanity, and found that the audience of about 80 was just as entertaining as the beautiful palace. I grew quite obsessed with a Russian oligarch, his trophy wife, and their six lovely blond children (he was frighteningly beefy and looked like he could benchpress a large opera singer himself). Two of the children, teenaged girls in bustiers with ironed hair and very long manicures, spent a great deal of time whispering to each other, holding hands, and occasionally smooching. We had many interesting theories.
The opera was lovely -- Phil and I especially liked the soprano and the tenor who played Rigoletto. Moving from room to room was entertaining and a relief from the very hard and uncomfortable chairs we sat on. Free prosecco was provided. It was a grand experience.
Early -- before noon -- Phil and Klauser went to the Rialto Market and returned with fresh squid, scallops, and red mullet. Then Phil and I vaporettoed to San Giorgio Maggiore, a 17th century basilica on its own island that is considered one of Palladio's greatest achievements. We viewed Tintoretto's coronation of the Virgin Mary and Bassano's Lucia Dragged to Martyrdom, but two Tintoretto masterworks, including the third of his Last Suppers, were under renovation. We were told, though, that if we returned in a week or so we could watch them work on the restoration.
Next door to the church there was a free exhibit on Casanova in honor of the 300th anniversary of his birth. It was a multimedia experience on his travels, loves, work with the occult, and whatnot. It's hard to describe -- whimsical and bizarre, revealing dimensions of his multifaceted personality. My only previous knowledge of Casanova had been the volume of his memoirs that my parents kept slightly hidden in their room and that I snuck out every so often to read and be titillated by.
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| Sue and Klauser's whole turbot at the Tavernetta |
Back on the main island we stopped in San Zaccaria to admire its sumptuous painted walls, its Tintorettos and Bassanos. Then back to the apartment for a rest, prosecco, and a short walk to "our" restaurant, Tavernetta Maurizio, where we at on our first night.
Sunday we went to the Jewish Ghetto for a guided tour that took us to the two open synagogues, the Levantine and the Spanish, and a hidden garden from the 15th century filled with biblical plants. Phil was excited to wear a yarmulke. We got a very detailed history of the Jews in Venice; our guide was excellent, and the synagogues were unusual and stunning, designed and built by the best Christian architects and artists hired by wealthy Jewish merchants.
Sue chose to continue exploring the area, Cannaregio, afterward, and we headed back where, following a brief rest, Klauser importuned Phil to take him out glass shopping. They returned laden.
Phil made an iteration of his Many Fishes meal for the Londoners' last meal, using the purchases from the fish market. It was even better than the Christmas version, culminating in zuppe di pesce and accompanied by a fabulous amarone, courtesy of Sue. We ate and drank till we were nearly comatose, but Klauser and Sue still managed to get up in the morning and finish packing. We saw them off and have heard since that they made it back home with no (or anyway few) mishaps. We will miss them!
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